MIL-DTL-82189C(MC)
TABLE I. Manufacturing requirements - Continued.
SEAM/
STCH
STCH
BOB/
NO
OPERATION
TYPE
TYPE
STCH/IN
NDL
LPR
12
Seam sleeves at backarm.
Finished appearance. The backarm
seam shall finish smooth and flat
without twists, gathers, puckers,
or pleats and shall start and
finish evenly.
a. Join the top and under sleeve
301
SSa-1
12-16
A
A
together at the backarm with a 3/8
(silk)
(silk)
inch seam, catching the ends in the
wigan reinforcement piece in the
stitching.
b. Spread open the seam and press
smooth and flat with a heated
pressing iron.
13
Baste and tack sleeve turnup to
reinforcement.
a. Turn up the bottom edge of
101
sleeve to the inside at the mark
or
and baste along the turned edge.
Hand
b. Tack the raw edge of the turn
301
EFc-1
4-6
C
A
up portion to the reinforcement
or
(silk)
(silk)
wigan piece with blind stitching.
Hand
4-6
A
14
Stitch and press dart in under
sleeve linings.
a. Fold the under sleeve lining,
301
SSa-1
12-16
A
A
matching the cut edges of the under
(cut
sleeve dart. Stitch the entire
edges)
length of the dart, 1/4 inch from
OSf-1
folded
the cut edges at the armhole, and
edge
taper the line of stitching to zero
at the lower folded edge.
b. Turn the cut edges of the dart
toward the forearm edge and press
the entire dart smooth and flat
with a heated pressing iron.
15
Seam sleeve lining at forearm.
Finish appearance. The forearm
seam shall finish smooth and flat
without twists, gathers, puckers or
pleats and shall start and finish
evenly.
18
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