MIL-DTL-82189C(MC)
3.6. Construction.
3.6.1 Manufacturing requirements. The coats shall be
manufactured in accordance with the operations and the stitch,
seam, and stitching type specified in Table I.
3.6.1.1. Operations. The contractor is not required to follow
the exact sequence of operations as listed in Table I, but all
operations specified shall be used to manufacture the coats.
3.6.1.2. Stitches, seams, and stitchings. The stitch, seam, and
stitching types specified in Table I shall conform to
FED-STD-751. The number of stitches per inch as specified in
Table I indicate the minimum and maximum number permitted. All
overedge stitching shall be done on serging machines with a knife
attachment properly set to trim the raveled edge without cutting
the material.
3.6.1.2.1 Thread breaks and ends of seams. The ends of all seams
and stitching produced with 301 type stitch, except ends of a
continuous line of stitching when not caught in other seams or
stitchings, shall be backtacked not less than 1/4 inch. The ends
of a continuous line of stitching shall be overlapped not less
than 1/2 inch. Thread breaks shall be secured back of the break
not less than 1/2 inch.
3.6.1.3. Shade marking. The component parts of the coat, cut
from one piece of wool and lining materials, including pairs of
sleeve linings and underarm shields when cut from ends, shall be
shade marked to ensure a uniform shade and size throughout the
garment. Any method of shade marking may be used except:
(a) Corrosive metal fastening devices.
(b) Sew-on shade tickets.
(c) Adhesive type tickets where adhesive causes
discoloration or whose adhesive mass adheres to the material upon
removal of the tickets.
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