MIL-DTL-82172D(MC)
3.6. Construction.
3.6.1 Manufacturing requirements. The coat shall be
manufactured in accordance with the operations and the stitch,
seam, and stitching types specified in Table I.
3.6.1.1. Operations. The contractor is not required to follow
the exact sequence of operations as listed in Table I, but all
operations specified shall be used to manufacture the coats.
3.6.1.2. Stitches, seams and stitching. The stitch, seam and
stitching types specified in Table I shall conform to
FED-STD-751. The number of stitches per inch as specified in
Table I, indicates the minimum and maximum number permitted. All
overedge stitching shall be done on serging machines with a knife
attachment properly set to trim the raveled edge without cutting
the material.
3.6.1.3. Thread breaks and ends of seams. Ends of seams and
stitching (stitch type 301), except ends of a continuous line of
stitching when not caught in other seams or stitchings, shall be
backtacked not less than 1/4 inch. The ends of a continuous line
of stitching shall be overlapped not less than 1/2 inch. Thread
breaks shall be secured back of the break line not less than 1/2
inch.
3.6.1.4. Shade markings. The component parts of the coat, cut
from one piece of wool and lining materials, including pairs of
sleeve linings and underarm shields when cut from ends, shall be
shade marked to ensure a uniform shade and size throughout the
garment. Any method of shade marking may be used except:
a.
Metal fastening devices.
b.
Sew-on shade tickets.
c.
Adhesive type tickets which show discoloration or leave
traces of paper or adhesive mass to the material upon removal of
the tickets.
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