MIL-DTL-82149C(MC)
of A-A-52071, except the requirement for nonfibrous material
shall not apply.
3.3.14 Thread.
3.3.14.1.Silk thread. The silk thread shall conform to A-A-50196
except the requirement for extractable material shall not apply.
The thread for machine sewing shall conform to type I, ticket No.
A, for bartacks and all outside seaming and stitching; ticket No.
0 for machine felling; and ticket No.'s B and F for buttonhole
needle and bobbin thread respectively. The thread for hand
sewing shall conform to type II, class 3, ticket No. C, 2-ply.
3.3.14.2.Cotton thread. The cotton thread shall conform to
A-A-52094, type III, mercerized finish, ticket No. A, 3-ply for
all inside seaming and stitching; type I, soft finish, ticket No.
70, 2-ply for serging and overedge stitching; type II, glazed
finish, ticket No. 24, 4-ply for sewing on buttons and machine
tacking armholes. The thread for tacking sleeve lining, hand
tacking facing to interlining and basting shall be a good
commercial grade. As an alternate to the cotton thread, a
polyester core, cotton or polyester covered thread conforming to
A-A-50199, ticket No. 50, 2-ply or ticket No. 70, 2-ply may be
used.
3.3.14.3.Color and colorfastness. All thread shall be scarlet,
shade W, cable No. 66040 (see DoD Standard Color Card of Official
Standardized Shades for Sewing Threads 1968), except the silk
thread for stitching the collar, cuffs and braid, which shall be
black; the cotton thread for basting and machine tacking
armholes, which may be white; and the thread for overedge
stitching of the piping at bottom edge of coat shall be white.
The colored threads, when tested as specified in the applicable
thread specification, shall show good fastness to wet (dry)
cleaning, and in addition, the silk thread shall show good
fastness to light.
3.3.15 Gimp. The buttonhole gimp shall be cotton, ticket No. 8,
soft or glazed finish, conforming to type I or II of A-A-50198.
The color of the gimp shall be scarlet, shade W, cable No. 66040,
and shall show good fastness to wet (dry) cleaning.
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