MIL-DTL-82193C(MC)
TABLE I.
Manufacturing requirements - Continued.
SEAM/
STCH
STCH
BOB/
NO
OPERATION
TYPE
TYPE
STCH/IN
NDL
LPR
Assemble collar.
6
(cont'd)
g. Turn the interlining to the
301
SSa-1
10-14
A/3
A/3
inside and stitch the lower edge of
(cotton) (cotton)
the interlining to the collar
crinoline from end to end. Trim the
lower edge of the collar crinoline
even with the edge of the collar
interlining assembly.
h. Fold the side (ends) and lower
Hand
4-6
C
raw edges of the basic material of
(silk)
the collar over the lower and side
edges (ends) of collar interlining
assembly and tack the lower and side
edges (ends) to the polyester twill.
i. Make one eyelet through all plies
Eyelet
20 per
A
A
of the collar and lining, 3/4 inch
eyelet
(silk)
(silk)
from bottom edge of collar ± 1/16
(min)
inch and 1-3/4 inches from finished
end of collar ± 1/8 inch.
7
Seam sleeves at forearm.
Finished appearance. The forearm
seam shall finish smooth and flat
without twists, gathers, puckers or
pleats and shall start and finish
evenly.
a. Position the top sleeve with
upper forearm edge in line with notch
at the armhole edge of under sleeve
and with notches at the lower forearm
edge of top and under sleeve matching
and the edges even.
b. Stitch top and under sleeve
301
SSbd-1
10-14
A
A
together with a 3/8 inch seam, from
to
the forearm edge of the sleeve,
SSa-1
forming a tapered outlet on the under
sleeve.
c. Spread open the seam and press
flat with a heated iron or pressing
machine.
d. Mark the top and under sleeve for
the bottom turn-up as indicated by
notches in the pattern.
17
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