MIL-DTL-82168C(MC)
3.6. Construction.
Manufacturing requirements. The coats shall be
3.6.1
manufactured in accordance with the operations and the stitch,
seam, and stitching types specified in Table I.
3.6.1.1. Operations. The contractor is not required to follow
the exact sequence of the operations as listed in Table I, but
all operations specified shall be used to manufacture the coats.
3.6.1.2. Stitches, seams and stitching. The stitch, seam and
stitching types specified in Table I shall conform to
FED-STD-751. The number of stitches per inch as specified in
Table I indicates the minimum and maximum number permitted. All
overedge stitching shall be done on serging machines with a knife
attachment properly set to trim the raveled edge without cutting
the material.
3.6.1.2.1 Tacking and backstitching. Ends of all seams and
stitching (stitch type 301), except ends of a continuous line of
stitching, when not caught in other seams of stitchings, shall be
backtacked not less than 1/4 inch. The ends of a continuous line
of stitching shall be overlapped not less than 1/2 inch. Thread
breaks shall be secured back of the break line not less than 1/2
inch.
3.6.1.3. Shade marking. The component parts shall be cut from
one piece of the applicable wool materials and lining material,
including pairs of sleeve linings and underarm shields when cut
from ends, shall be shade marked to insure uniform shade and size
throughout the garment. Any method of shade marking may be used
except:
a.
Corrosive metal fastening devices.
b.
Sew-on shade tickets.
c.
Adhesive type tickets which show discoloration or leave
traces of paper or adhesive mass to the material upon removal of
the tickets.
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