MIL-DTL-28919B(MC)
ITEM
PATTERN NOMENCLATURE
NO. OF CUT PARTS
Material:
Lining/Interlining
10
Right fly lining
1
11
Crotch lining
2
12
Side pocket stay
2
13
Left fly interlining
1
14
Hip pocket flap lining
2
Material:
Pocketing
15
Side pocket
2
16
Hip pocket
2
3.6. Construction. The trousers shall be manufactured in
accordance with all operations specified in Table I. The
supplier is not required to follow the exact sequence of the
operations listed in Table I, but all operations specified shall
be used to manufacture the trousers. Any additional basting or
holding stitching used to facilitate manufacture is permissible
provided that the thread is removed or does not show on the
finished trousers.
3.6.1 Stitching, seams and stitchings. Stitch, seam and
stitching types specified in Table I shall conform to
FED-STD-751. Whenever two or more methods for seam or stitch
types are given for the same part of the operation, any one of
them may be used. Where stitch type 401 is used, the looper
(under thread) shall be on the inside of the trousers. Seam
allowances shall be maintained with seams sewn so that no raw
edges, runoffs, twists, pleats, puckers or open seams will
result. All seams shall start and finish evenly. Thread
tensions shall be maintained so that there will be no tight or
loose tension. Buttonholes shall be clean cut and the stitching
shall be securely caught in the fabric.
3.6.1.1. Stitches per inch. The minimum and maximum number of
stitches per inch shall be as specified in Table I.
3.6.1.2. Thread breaks and ends of seam. The ends of all seams
and stitching, when not caught in other seams and stitching,
shall be backtacked not less than 1/4 inch. The ends of a
continuous line of stitching (except labels) shall be overlapped
not less than 1/2 inch. The ends of the label stitching shall be
overlapped not less than three stitches. Thread breaks (all
stitch types) shall be secured by stitching back of the break not
8
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