A-A-52112B
The total weight of the fusible shall be a minimum of 1.6 ounces per square yard; the breaking strength shall be a minimum of 2 pounds in the machined direction; and the bond strength, when fused to the shell material, shall be a minimum of 32 ounces. As an alternate, the collar may be fused with a plain weave cotton substrate coated with a polyester or polyethylene adhesive. Total weight of the fusible shall be a minimum of 1.4 ounces per square yard. The substrate shall have a minimum of 44 ends and 40 picks and have a breaking strength of 10 pounds per square inch on both the warp and filling direction. If automatic creasebanding collarstand equipment is used, the fusible material on both sides with a polyvinyl aetate co-polymer adhesive. The total weight of the fusible shall be a minimum of 1.4 ounces per square yard. As an alternate, a woven 100% cotton substrate coated on both sides with the polyvinyl acetate may be used. The total weight of the fusible shall be a minimum of 1.8 ounces per square yard. The coatings on both of the above materials shall be transitory in nature such that the adhesive shall wash out after two washings.
Collar stays. The collar stays shall be made from polyethylene-terephthalate plastic sheet, thickness 0.014 ± 0.001 inch, natural in color (clear or opaque). Either both ends shall be rounded, or both shall be pointed with the ends rounded, or one end shall be rounded and one end shall be cut at any angle with the point rounded. Unslotted collar stays shall measure 3/8 ± 1/32 inch wide and 2-3/4 to 2-7/8 inches long. Slotted stays 1/32 inch wide and 2-3/4 to 2-7/8 inches long. slotted stays shall measure 1/2 ± 1/32 wide and 2-3/4 to 2-7/8 inches long.
Thread. The thread for seaming and stitching shall be polyester-covered or cotton covered polyester core, ticket nos. 70, 2 ply and 100, 2 ply conforming to A-A-50199. The thread for buttonholes and button sewing shall be 70, 2 ply only. Equally size spun polyester thread conforming to class 1 or 2 of MIL-T-46324 may be substituted for the polyester-covered or cotton-covered polyester core thread. The thread shall show “good” colorfastness to light, perspiration, and laundering.
Buttons. The buttons shall be flat, pearlescent, polyester composition, 4 hole recessed center, white and 19 line.
Buttonholes. The buttonholes shall be 1/2 to 9/16 inch long and shall be a straight-cut, purl or whip type construction. Six vertical buttonholes shall be positioned 3/4 (± 1/16) inch from the left front edge. The collar buttonhole shall be placed horizontally in the left front, in the center of the collarstand.
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