A-A-55095A
3.2.2 Thread. The thread used shall be cotton covered-polyester core thread, Ticket No. 50, 2 ply,
Tex 36-45 for needle, and Ticket No. 70, 2 ply, Tex 31-35 for bobbin, conforming to
A-A-50199. The size 70 is used for overedge stitch and multi-thread chain. The color shall be a good
match to the basic material. The dyed thread shall show "not less than grade 3" or "good" colorfastness
to laundering and light when tested as specified in A-A-50199.
3.2.3 Buttons. The buttons shall be a melamine formaldehyde composition, 30 line, 4 hole sewing
button in accordance with style shown in Figure 6. The button color shall be a good match to Navy
shade Dark Blue 501 for the class 1 coveralls and Navy shade green 600 for the class 2 coveralls.
3.2.4 Buttonholes. The buttonholes shall be eyelet-end, taper-bar type worked over gimp with the
purling on the outside and the ends of the buttonholes stitching and gimp securely tacked. The
buttonhole shall have a minimum cut length of ¾ (+1/16) inch to accommodate the required button. The
cuff buttonhole shall be placed 5/8 (+1/16) inch from the edge of the cuff.
3.2.5 Gimp. The gimp used for reinforcing the buttonholes shall be type I or II size No. 8 of
A-A-50198. The color shall be a good match to the basic material. The dyed gimp shall show "not
less than grade 3" or "good" colorfastness to laundering when tested as specified in
A-A-50198.
3.2.6 Slide fastener. The brass slide fastener for the front closure shall be a double slider non-
separating, reversible, with an automatic lock, open top, and bottom stop. All metal components of the
slide fastener shall be fabricated of brass. The width of the closed chain shall be a minimum of 0.180
inch and a maximum of 0.310 inch, the single tape shall be 9/16 (+1/32) inch, and the thickness of the
tape shall be a minimum of 0.035 inch. The color of the tape shall be a good match to the basic material
and shall show "not less than grade 3" when tested for colorfastness to laundering and light in
accordance with AATCC 61 Test 3A 1/, 2/ and AATCC 16, option A. The slide fastener shall have a
short pull tab. All components shall be from the same supplier.
1/ The specimen must be dried after each of the 3 laundering cycles.
2/ On the color transfer cloth evaluation, only the stain on the cotton and polyester fibers of the color
transfer cloth shall be evaluated.
3.2.7 Snap fastener. The snap fastener closure shall consist of a button and socket (female half) and
stud and eyelet (male half) and be constructed from non-corrosive materials. The snap fastener for the
fly front shall be 16-17 line, black finish, pronged ring head type. The components shall be firmly
engaged when fastened and still permit disengagement with a reasonable, properly applied force. The
complete fastener shall be of one manufacturer's construction only.
3.3 Patterns. The government shall furnish a complete set of patterns. The pattern generally provides
for a seam allowance of ½ inch for joining seams, except for the following seams: a ¼ inch seam
allowance shall be used to attach the facing to lower front pocket opening; to attach the cuffs to the
sleeves, to attach pocket flaps; to seam top collar to under collar. A 3/8 inch seam allowance shall be
used for the waistband joining seam and to attach the collar to the neckline. The breast pocket, breast
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